Macaroni

From Thomas Jefferson Encyclopedia

Contents

Jefferson's Notes on Macaroni and the Macaroni Machine

William Short sent the "macaroni machine" to Jefferson when Short was in Rome (he went to Naples and bought it there) and sent it to Jefferson when he was in Paris. Jefferson did not carry the macaroni mold back with him when he sailed to America. It probably did not reach Paris until after he had departed. He had his belongings sent to him from France to Philadelphia in 1790, and the machine was probably included with those items. We know that Jefferson did have the machine in the United States eventually, as it is listed as being shipped along with other household items that he sent from Philadelphia to Monticello in 1793.

Jefferson's drawing of a macaroni machine and notes. Library of Congress
Jefferson's drawing of a macaroni machine and notes. Library of Congress

"The best maccaroni in Italy is made with a particular sort of flour called Semola, in Naples : but in almost every shop a different sort of flour is commonly used; for, provided the flour be of a good quality, & not ground extremely fine, it will always do very well. a paste is made with flour, water & less yeast than is used for making bread. this paste is then put, by little at a time, vir. about 5. or 6. tb each time into a round iron box ABC. the under part of which is perforated with holes, through which the paste, when pressed by the screw DEF, comes out, and forms the Maccaroni g.g.g. which, when sufficiently long, are cut & spread to dry. the screw is turned by a lever inserted into the hole K, of which there are 4. or 6. it is evident that on turning the screw one way, the cylindrical part F. which fits the iron box or mortar perfectly well, must press upon the paste and must force it out of the holes. LIM is a strong wooden frame, properly fast-ened to the wall, floor, and ceiling of the room.”

“N.O. is a figure on a larger scale of some of the holes in the iron plate, where all the black is solid, and the rest open. the real plate has a great many holes, and is screwed to the box or mortar : or rather there is a set of plates which may be changed at will, with holes of different shapes & sizes for the different sorts of Maccaroni." [1]

Macaroni and Cheese

Jefferson did not bring macaroni and cheese to America, nor did he invent the recipe. It is really unclear if he ate it, since few recipes survive in his hand (and that of other family members). Marie Kimball includes this recipe in her book:

Break macaroni in small pieces, there should be 2 cupfuls, and boil in salted water until tender. Grate 1/4 pound of cheese and mix with the same amount of butter. Stir into macaroni and bake like polenta.[2]

Researchers believe that this recipe is a later family recipe and we do not know if Jefferson's Monticello made it or not.

Primary Source References

1809 November 29. "Pd. John B. Sartori of Trenton 8. D. for 2. boxes Macaroni of 25. lbs. each.[3]

1809 December 30. (Jefferson to Gordon, Trokes & Co.). "I have mentioned the article of Maccaroni, not knowing if they are to be had in Richmond. I have formerly been supplied from Sartori's works at Trenton, who makes them well, and would be glad to supply you should the Richmond demand make it worth your while to keep them. I paid him 16 cents the pound."[4]

1810 January 17. (Gordon, Trokes & Co. to Jefferson). "The only Maccaroni in town is held by M.L. Foust which he says came directly from Italy. He asks 4/6 p. li., which so much exceeds the price mentioned by you that we supposed it would be best to acquaint you of it before purchasing."[5]

1816 June 8. "Wrote to P. Gibson to remit John Steele Collector of Phila. 16.80 duties & portcharges on 50. bottles of Hermitage & a box of Maccaroni sent there by Stephen Cathalan of Marseilles."[6]

Footnotes

  1. See Notes in Monticello Explorer: http://explorer.monticello.org/text/index.php?id=52&type=5
  2. Thomas Jefferson's Cook Book. Charlottesville: University of Virginia Press, 2003, c1976), 81. Polenta is baked porridge.
  3. MB, 2:1235.
  4. Massachusetts Historical Society http://www.thomasjeffersonpapers.org/
  5. Ibid.
  6. MB, 2: 1324.